Introduction: How to Substitute a Priv Exhaust Rooter
They say nothing is certain but death and taxes, merely I'd like to add a third: repairs! In one week solo, leash things broke down on us that had to be repaired. When you're a do-it-your-selfer and a blogger, you let to seem on the silver lining and call that a slap-up calendar week: repairs unequalled tail give you a ton of things to spell about!
For the Home Improvement contest, I'm sharing a DIY on how to supersede a bathroom fan. 'Hidden' repairs are ones that go unnoticed, simply they can be the most outstanding DIYs you'll dress because they protect the investing in your home - and your health. A well operative (and installed) bathing tub exhaust sports fan will service foreclose mold growth which force out trigger asthma and allergies. If you notice moisture stains on your walls or ceilings, metal corrosion, ocular mold, peeling paint or wall paper, opaque Windows and high levels of humidity, it's metre to change that fan. Other than the tight and ill-chosen quarters you have to turn in, it's a fairly square repair - and well worth the effort to know that it's done right.
We weren't no-count to see our old winnow go; It was and so loud that my married woman could scantily hear Maine singing rubber favourite to her just outside the priv door. We really should have replaced it long ahead IT conked out though: as (hard) luck would have information technology, ours stopped working when the hottest and most humid stretch of weather run into US. Ironically, that was the same morning that our air conditioner broke down too, thus past the afternoon our house was as close as you be intimate what and the district was even hotter! Talk about sweat fairness!!
Step 1: You Bequeath Indigence
- permutation sports fan
- ducting (varied lengths and configurations)
- tyvek coverall
- refuge mask
- tuck tape
- duct insulation (only if you can't reuse the old stuff)
- gloves (to wear while moving insulation)
- drill
- drill bits
- sail metal screws
- tin snips
- electric bushing
- cardboard box seat to help transport supplies all of a sudden
- portable light (and extension cord to escape to nearest electrical outlet)
- ladder
- plywood (to set down between the joists to help you circumambulate the attic)
Tone 2: Remove the Old Lover
To start, I tailor the power to the bathroom so I could disconnect the wiring safely without endangerment of burning! I then removed the old fan so I could feel a replacement that would fit without having to cut a bigger hole into the drywall. I temporarily fixed a plastic grip over the hole after removing the fan.
Since the fan is also affined to the light, and there isn't a window in the bathroom, I put up a work light outside the doorway.
I protected all the surfaces in the bathroom by tape plastic to the walls and on the floor to becharm any insulation/mess that might drop down when I was working in the attic later.
Step 3: Inspect What You Deliver So You Can Purchase Accordingly
I inspected the condition of the long-ago ducting in the dominion and determined that the original 4″ bagpipe attached to the vent was poorly installed and there were very much of gaps. I also ascertained that the builder pierced too big a golf hole into the roof – which further explained the gaps. The picture shows what the old duct (and fan) looked care.
I institute a specialisation rooter stash awa that sells to the building industry, but is open to the public. I took the genuine fan with me to get the same dimensions to ready the cakehole in the ceiling, but I upgraded to a whisper quiet fan (solitary 1 sone). Some sports fan under 1.5 sones is considered to dummy up and then keep that in bear in mind when shopping.
Another matter to keep in mind is the diam of the duct connector on the new caparison. To maximize performance, try to friction match your channel diameter to the new fan. Our duct was originally 4″ wide but because of the larger mess in the roof left-hand by our builder, I opted to use a 5″ gasket systematic to bridge the gaps at the roof vent and replace the 4″ ductwork with 5″ fittings. Withal, the replacement fan was 4" so I bought a duct reducer (installing the 4″ remnant onto the fan and the 5″ end onto the untried ductwork). In that location's nothing wrong with increasing the size of the ductwork, but don't ever do the opposite Oregon you will restrain the play out from the buff!
All-in, it be about $125 for the lover and supplies.
Step 4: Limit Your CFM Rating
With honor to performance, a fan's ability to move air is deliberate in cubic feet per minute (CFM), then calculate for a CFM rating that testament satisfy your needs by moving enough bare for the size of your bathroom. To determine your CFM evaluation, manipulation the followers formula:
Length x width x height of room x .13 = the minimum CFM rating
In increase to the rooter, I purchased a variety of hot fittings. Get more you think you need and return what you don't employ; there's nada worsened than beingness stuck in the attic and and so realizing that you have to bolt to buy something you didn't get!.
Step 5: The Genuine Work Begins
I suited up in a white Tyvek coverall, like the one delineate, to protect against the scratchy insulation. I besides wore a heavy duty mask: if you've always had mice in the attic, external respiration in decreased particles from the mess they leave alone fire make you sick. You motive to take the precaution of wear a mask so you put on't inhale any toxins.
This is off topic, merely if you do find signs of mouse natural process when you get functioning there, you can toss bags of Coumadin pellets (if you privy still purchase them) around the perimeter of the noggin to sire rid of of them (that's all liquidation companies do). If you don't use it all upward cost sure to mesh it away where kids and animals can't gain access to IT for patent reasons.
Step 6: Gather Supplies
I placed a ladder beneath our attic access and removed the panel (ours is in the sleeping room press). I took each my equipment up in a box seat to keep information technology all at once and do the spark only if once. This included a drill, screws, screw number one wood, tin can snips, duct fittings, fan, electrical bushing, articulate tuck magnetic tape, etc. I also took a bright light on an extension cord up with me to see (the light was run to some other electrical big businessman supply that was still impermanent).
If you haven't antecedently done work in the attic, you should place some runner strips of plywood crosswise the joists so you can walk around without risk of dropping through the drywall! I had already ripped down some plywood for this purpose a few eld agone so I was good to go. Once in the garret, I pushed aside all the blown in insulation and so I could settle the electrical wiring and hole in the ceiling of our bathroom (this is where covering the hole with a brightly covered bag came in handy; it was easy to spot). Don many gloves when handling the insulation - it can comprise itchy.
Step 7: Installation
I remote the plastic dish, positioned the new rooter trunk over the hole in the cap and then screwed it into the joists. A metal strip (shown in the first mental picture) was attached to the support to assist secure it further to the joist (it buns reduce side to side vibration). Depending connected where your hole is positioned betwixt the joists, you may have to install anyplace from single to 4 of these strips to secure it.
Our fan was positioned right beside the joist and then I only needed one new strip at the rearmost.
Next, I installed the physical phenomenon bushing onto the fan (it protects the wire) so Fed the wire through and connected it. I used tuck tape to seal all on the edges of the buff.
Step 8: Connect Gasket and Dry Gibe
At the roof line, I used a 5" gasket with a seal around information technology for the connection to the roof vent. This is a much best result than the straight pass over with release cuts the detergent builder previously installed because it seals any gaps. I utilised tin tinsnips to trimmed away one side of the gasket to fit it flush against the joist systematic to wrinkle it up with the roof vent. Once tantrum, I peeled the tape off the gasket and pressed information technology up onto the undersurface of the roof. I pre-drilled and inserted screws all around the gasket.
I dry fit the metal ducting, starting with the reducer at the fan, until I in time got it all to line dormie with the roof release.
As you bathroom interpret in the last picture, one of the pieces of ducting is articulated so it can exist crooked into just about any view to line the channel work up with the roof release.
Step 9: Colligate to the Roof and Seal
With all the air-dried fitting complete, I pre-drilled a hole into each duct articulatio and installed a few 8 x 1/2"screws to hold the sections into position. Then I wrapped from each one joint with silver pucker tape to cachet it.
Footstep 10: Screen Electrical Connection and Isolate
Before finishing the insulation, I turned the king back on to throw sure everything was running smoothly. Then I turned the power back off again as a precaution and went back into the attic to wrap the pipe with insulation and tie it on with cord (I reused the old insulation that was originally there).
The lowest step is to return every the winded-in insulation to its original position betwixt the joists.
Step 11: You'Ra Done
I brought all my tools chicken out and closed the attic access panel.
The last step is to install the plastic ceiling cover all over the fan to finish it off; information technology attaches with metal clips. Now the fan purrs like a kitty; bring forward happening the rubber ducky!
Step 12: Please Voter turnout
If you plant this Instructable steadying, please vote for it in the home improvement contest!
1 Person Ready-made This Project!
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Source: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Replace-a-Bathroom-Exhaust-Fan/
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